Fighting doom with glitter since 2001, Ashish’s autumn/winter 18 collection, of course, brought some sparkle to the London Fashion Week runway.
Always one to use his platform to spread a message of hope, love and acceptance, this season designer Ashish Gupta took influence from the swinging 60s while celebrating what all fashionistas do best; shopping.
His signature tongue-in-cheek slogans and logo-hacks turned on financial corps this season, switching up Mastercard to become Masturbate, Visa to Viva L’Amore and American Express to read American Excess. Many of the models took to the runway clutching plastic shopping bags.
Ending the show with Cher’s track Take Me Home, the finale brought a much-needed message of love and peace.
This season, palmer//harding reflect on the different contexts of movement — in a physical sense. “When you’re in a state of change, we found that there’s an inherent need for order even if you can revel in the temporary chaos,” explain designers Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding.
Emotional, unsettling, necessary or thrilling, movement is all around us; from signal development to expressing creativity. Although, one thing is for sure; it’s constant.
“We play around with the idea of controlling or even engineering movement while imbuing the pieces with insouciance and freedom.” The design duo continues, “When faced with movement, it’s tempting to hold on to the current position, especially when things around you are changing. Here, a certain leap into the unknown is required to progress.” So, progress they did.
For autumn/winter 18 palmer//harding put their garments into a state of change. Shirts, dresses and outerwear are scrunched up, have twisted fastenings or seams and cinch around the cuffs. Continuing with their signature asymmetry, the designers’ pieces are cut with mixed fabric, denoting the effect of direct sunlight being both caught in the moment and in a state of transition.
Lulu Kennedy continues to bring us the fashion of the future by providing Britain’s best-emerging designers with a spot on the LFW runway. Taking to the runway this season were ASAI, Charlotte Knowles, Symonds Pearmain and Supriya Lele.
Central Saint Martins grad ASAI was originally headhunted by Kanye West before he’d even finished studying. Now on his third collection, his intricately woven and shredded pieces develop into twisted-tip brights, with fearless waxed jackets and re-worked trench coats.
Designer Charlotte Knowles is already stocked internationally by Opening Ceremony, she’s definitely on Neighbourhood’s ones to watch list. Her garments are made for the confident women who ‘own’ their sexuality, however, her transparent mesh dresses and slips are altered, featuring revamped collars and prints that don’t necessarily conform with society’s (or Paris Hilton’s) cliche view of “that’s hot.”
Meanwhile, Royal College of Art graduate Supriya Lele is questioning our British identity. How do we navigate our cultural kinships as second-generation immigrants, born-and-raised British? And now more than ever, in the age of Brexit, we’re questioning our Britishness altogether. By exploring her own Indian heritage, Supriya Lele mixes traditional Saris with utility and sportswear. The show was the designer’s final showcase supported by Fashion East and we’re excited to see what she has up sleeve for spring/summer 18.