Returning to presentation format, this season Ryan Lo takes us on a trip through his greatest hits.
Stepping inside David Shrigley’s powder puff pink gallery at Sketch, Lo’s girls dine in chevron striped candy floss nightgowns that trail the floor and Victorian-style dresses. In contrast, Vamped up maids and mannequins wear black lace slips, breaking up his usual go-to-candy-stripe hues, showing us that Lo, is indeed growing up.
While entering a more sophisticated fantasy land, Lo’s lust for youth and romance remain at the heart of his designs, creating a body of work throughout his career for “not a girl, not yet a woman.”
On New Year’s day, the Ashley Williams girls made a pact; to ditch technology and spend their energy exploring the UK and all its monolithic marvels. Hopping on board the Megabus for their new expedition, they soon realised they weren’t apropriatley packed and had to drop into local hiking shops to customise their clothes en route.
The result? An autumn/winter 18 collection that’s a DIY environmental survival guide, featuring sheer tulle frocks flocked in barbed wire and tops emblazoned with feathers like “a busty phoenix rising from the ashes”. Fleeces, souvenir T-shirts, bumbags, sweatshirts and picnic blankets repurposed as ponchos resembled the type of clothing you’d find in a tourist store.
New endurance aside, Williams’ 80s spirit is still run-of-the-mill. Acid-wash denim looks and technicolour tie-dye hit the runway, a subtle nod to Britain’s loved rave culture. But what can William’s girls learn from their new tech-free adventure? Well, while pampering life’s complexities, she now realised it’s ok to harbour anxieties, just do your best, don’t worry, “don’t care”.
New to the fashion world this season is Fortie Label by fresh-out-of-uni-designer Essie Buckman. Supported by Fashion Scout, Fortie took to the Freemason’s runway with ‘Forty Thieves‘, inspired by the all-female London crime syndicate infamous for their antics from 19th to mid 20th century.
Marching down the catwalk to 90’s R&B female hip-hop tracks while strewing money at the audience, the collection is a celebration of black culture and an ode to strong, empowered women everywhere.
For autumn/winter 18, Essie’s fierce girl gang wear triple hooded jackets and vamped-up denim corsets inspired by bulletproof vests. Sheer gold long-length overcoats pair with black bikinis and over-the-knee boots in a fusion of sports luxe and feminine glamour. Who run the world?
Mimi’s juxtaposition of hard and soft is loud and clear this season — an exploration of cracked femininity. Her focus is on important places, old houses and the once claustrophobic walls in which femininity lay within.
“The graphics and prints (screen-printed using CMYK) feature elements inspired by the covers of female-centric gothic romance pulp novels – albeit Mimi’s are subverted and warped.” Other references came from the likes Dario Argento’s 1977 thriller Suspiria – a film of revisionist fairy tales and psychedelic candy-coloured driven hallucinations.