On the penultimate day of the season, fashion week was showing no signs of winding down, with a tightly-packed schedule of established designers and younger talent all presenting their offerings for spring/summer 18. Here were some of our highlights from the day;
@marques_almeida showed "an Americana, Oriental, urban mish-mash" of a collection under the railway arches just off Brick Lane. The soundtrack was Dolly Parton's Coat Of Many Colours – "I've been singing it to our baby to get her to sleep," said new mother Marta Marques, "and it just felt right". 📸: @ellie_pithers #VogueBackstage #LFW #SS18
‘My coat of many colours that my momma made for me, made only from rags but I wore it so proudly’ sings Dolly Parton on her song ‘Coat of Many Colours’, which echoed through Marques’ Almeida’s underground Brick Lane space finale on Monday afternoon. It was the finale of the couple’s first show since the birth of their daughter earlier in the year. The concept of patching things together, making do and mending, could be seen throughout the collection which combined a plethora of prints and fabrics, layered and reworked into thoroughly modern clothes. All of the M’A classics were present; cowhide, asymmetry, frayed denim, a nod to 90’s/00’s minimalism – but this season the design duo added a country twist, in hipster jeans, a heavy use of plaid – and of course the dulcet tones of Dolly.
For her spring/summer 18 collection – aptly titled ‘Away With The Fairies’ Sophia Webster invited guests into a mystical, enchanted ‘forest’. Model fairies perched on giant flowers to showcase her latest range of shoes, handbags and accessories, as well as a collaboration with jewellery designer Alex Munroe (featuring beautifully intricate elvish ear cuffs). It is rare for an accessories designer to have such a pull at fashion week, but Webster, who last year became the second shoe designer to win the BFC Vogue Fashion Fund, has captured the fashion world’s heart with her tongue-in-cheek bags and unapologetically feminine style. If Carrie Bradshaw were around in 2017, these are the shoes she’d be coveting.
In the two years since her graduation from CSM – when she made headlines for holding a guerrilla show on school grounds after not being selected for the press show – Dilara Findikoglu has become something of a cult figure in the fashion industry. Her unique style, a blend of gothic and historical influences, mixed with expert tailoring and a fetishistic edge, has won her high-profile fans such as Rihanna, Lady Gaga, FKA Twigs and Madonna, and a devout following. Her first catwalk show, titled “Seven Sisters of Inherited Sun” and held in the opulently gothic space of St Andrew’s Holborn, lived up to its great expectations. Dilara’s muses (including Brooke Candy, and fashion’s favourite drag queen Violet Chachki) modelled a collection which combined Victoriana, punk, heavy metal, witchcraft and even sportswear influences into radically original and desirable garments, suggesting the designer’s rapid ascent isn’t slowing down anytime soon.
The magical twins and the dragons ✨🌙👯♂️🐉 ss18 done ✨THANK YOU to the best team EVER 🐉styling @annatrevelyan ✨ hair @alipirzadeh using @bumbleandbumbleuk ✨ makeup @isamayaffrench using @maccosmetics @maccosmeticsuk ✨ nails by @nailsbymh @nailsinc ✨jewellery by @Chrishabana ✨headpieces @rottingdeanbazaar✨ casting by @mischanot ✨ set design by @tony_hornecker ✨ thank you @tomosxerri for playing the harp so magically ✨🐉
Ashish has become synonymous with sequins – over the past ten seasons he has used them as embellishments, hair accessories, confetti, made slogan T-shirts entirely covered in them, created colour block sequin suits, and no doubt started the trend for sequined jeans, earning himself a reputation for making fashion’s best party wear. For spring/summer, his infatuation with all things sparkle continues, but whereas autumn/winter 17 was a rainbow of colour and optimism, this season’s collection took a darker turn, and not just in colour scheme. Alongside exquisitely embellished evening dresses, slogans such as ’witch’ ‘good mourning’, ‘a heart is a heavy burden’ and ‘rest in peace’ were paired with crescent moon motifs and black lace, resulting in a rather macabre feel. Make no mistake though; these are still party clothes – if the huge disco ball on the catwalk wasn’t enough, the spooky edit of Blondie’s ‘Heart of Glass’ which closed the show reassured us that Ashish isn’t hanging up his dancing shoes yet.