Highlighting both the beauty and fragility of our oceans, Raeburn’s autumn/winter 18 collection is a call to arms during maritime distress.
Infamous for his reuse of military surplus, the former air cadet continues to propel a consumer revolution towards sustainable fashion, focusing on responsible design that not only protects the planet but its wearer.
There were collaborative pieces with brand’s that share Raeburn’s vision of a more ethical fashion system, including; Finisterre, the West Country cold water surf brand, the boot brand Palladium and denim makers Blackhorse Lane.
Through the use of unique materials, immersion suits and overcoats are made with protective neoprene with functional waterproof zips and emergency whistles. RAF helicopter winchman coveralls are intelligently reworked into anoraks, coats and trousers, offering water resistance, breathability and thermal comfort. Preparing the wearer for the most unpredictable, harsh sea conditions, models wore a violent shade of safety orange and fisherman yellow. In contrast to the immersion pieces, checked wool pieces as sumptuous as cashmere, were refashioned from Russian Naval blankets as an element of comfort and security.
Phoebe English Man
Phoebe English maintains her mindfulness towards functionality for her men’s autumn/winter 18 collection.
Renowned for her ability to construct pieces with a strong focus on surface texture, this season, English takes it one step further by collaborating with knitwear designer Helen Lawrence. Textured jumpers, scarves and hats in charcoal, navy and red were made with soft British lambswool, using chunky gauges and various rib stitches.
Using lightweight waxed cottons, English presented a collection of box and bomber jackets worn with smart-wide legged trousers with oversized turn-ups. Finely detailed shirts and transparent buttons were worn underneath full-length trench coats.
An indisputable star of LFWM, Charles Jeffery reminded us once again that fashion is fun. The 27-year-old LOVERBOY looked back to his time being bullied as a child growing up in Glasgow. Using performance art, his on-schedule Sunday evening show was his way of showing those bullies that they didn’t win.
Backstage, Jeffrey told the Guardian that the show was also inspired by Alan Downs’ 2005 book The Velvet Rage, a tale of overcoming the challenges of growing up gay in a ‘straight man’s world’. “I think there has been a lot of changes in my life for the good and the best way I can describe this is growing pains,” he said. “This show was about exploring that feeling that I used to have as a kid, ‘one day I’ll show them.’”
Before guests had even found their seats, performance artists, splattered in paint screamed and stomped around the audience for a show entitled Tantrum. As the models came out, they formed as a backdrop, drinking wine bottles and heckling at passers-by. To the sound of a live drummer playing Prodigy’s Firestarter, models wore tartan kilts, moth-eaten suits and knitwear stuffed with padding and military-style jackets, intended as a “shield….to protect oneself from predators”.