Located at Ironmongers Hall, Edward Crutchley‘s second season presented LFWM with a collection that registers a dynamic clash between cultures, time periods and creative mediums. With a consciousness of the past, present and future, Crutchley uses his collection to question how these definitions of time are categorised. Garments are printed with classical imagery, yet, the shape of the garments reflect the streetwear aesthetic of today. In this sense, Crutchley is bringing the creative style of the past into the present to question the movement of Fashion design in the future.
Oversized jackets and coats were key items in the collection that displayed Crutchley’s promise in breaking boundaries of the shape and structure of garments. Interestingly, the spaciousness of the outerwear is a conceptual design as it is to mirror the space between time. The contrast of volume and drape of the garments is to create space and movement in relation to the form of the body so that the model appears dressed beyond the limits of the body. Moreover, the collection also references a blend of cultural influences with a nod towards artisanal craft techniques as well as a sense of unique texture and richness in the use of graphics.
Rather than presenting his personal perspective on history and culture, Edward Crutchley explores the ideas to bring us a collection that unites an amalgamation of past and present references in Art, Fashion and Culture. With skill in shape and structure, Edward Crutchley displays a gifted response to conceptual design and an encouraging future in collections to come.
Taking us into the evening of Day 1, Ben Sherman and Henry Holland collaborated to present a unisex capsule collection celebrating the “night-owls” of the 1970’s Northern Soul subculture. Soul and spirit filled the atmosphere at Somerset House as the show began with upbeat dancers using the catwalk as a dance floor to introduce the concept of the collection.
The menswear designers pulled inspiration from the silhouette of the dancer in order to capture the movement and feel of the signature two-step dancing peppered with flamboyant kicks, spins and drops. Sherman and Holland also drew upon the iconic black and white photography of Brian Canon by printing the images onto graphic tees, therefore incorporating his perspective of the Northern Soul culture. To be further sure to encapsulate all elements of the dancing era the collection also references the parquet floors dancers would practice on to hone their talent through the autumnal colour palette with modern yarns. The term “night owl” was then able to take a literal representation as the brown-based colour palette allowed for quirky owl prints.
The tribute to the dancer proved a fitting concept to exercise a blend of Henry Holland’s signature flair and Ben Sherman’s focus on the silhouette. On the collaboration, Holland had commented: “the collection we have created together feels like the perfect reflection of our shared values and sense of spirit”, hence both the aesthetic of the Northern Soul subculture as well as the mood and feel were celebrated, creating a collection with a “vibrant, colourful and youthful approach”.
Qasimi’s autumn/winter 18 collection told the diverse story of the check print. Bringing the crowd to Chelsea, the collection displayed a dichotomy of traditional and urban aesthetics to convey the timelessness staple that is the check print. Exploring the broader landscape that is the influence behind the Fashion scene of London, Qasimi displays the interconnectivity across cultures through pattern.
With a focus on the global use of the check pattern belonging to two families, gingham and Madras, the collection portrays the subjectivity of pattern and it’s connection to every culture. Moreover, the collection features custom hand drawings by the artist Zoe Keller which enhance the individuality of each garment whilst sharing the same story. The drawings of Middle Eastern fruits and fauna and wildlife provide a backdrop to the madras check, whereas the use of stripes are used as a symbol of growth.
Through an array of fabrics from thick gauge cashmere knits, heavy cotton twill, wool gabardine and more, the collection beautifully parallels traditional and contemporary use of pattern to tell a universal Fashion story which is made accessible to any individual.